Efficacious & sustainable production of Dutch ornamentals for cosmetics: a demonstration: Final report

The aim of this project is to demonstrate the potential of Dutch ornamental cultivation for the cosmetics sector by applying the principles of green extraction to three Dutch example crops (Freesia, Tulip and Iris). To generate high-quality fragrance samples, supercritical fluid extraction with CO2 is applied to carefully extract fragile, fragrant substances. Flower stems, harvested from Dutch growers were transported to the extraction company Nateco where the influence of different parameters such as temperature, pressure and application of a co-solvent, on the obtained aroma profile in two pre-selected freesia cultivars as well as one tulip cultivar was evaluated. Although there were no technical limitations, the master perfumer judged that the extracts generally encompassed a green, vegetable-like scent. Although floral and fruity notes were observed in some extracts however, these were not intense and possibly masked by more heavier, waxy components. The overall conclusion is that the fragrance intensity of the selected varieties was too low to achieve high-quality cosmetic applications. Nevertheless, the project may continue by including more intense-smelling Freesia and Tulip varieties or by including other more intense-smelling plant species. Moreover, the time of harvesting the peduncles requires some additional attention in order to get the flowers at the right stage of producing fragrances at the extraction facilities.